Getting Back to Basics

The other night, I finally had a little bit of time to breathe, so I decided to re-crack open my "textbook," The Professional Chef. Of course, it's been awhile since I've had time to dedicate to broadening my knowledge in the culinary field, so I'm still on that pesky soup section. Lucky thing...I love soup! The first recipe in this section of the text book is a traditional Chicken Rice soup (Canja). A few weeks ago, I made a giant batch of homemade chicken stock, so a few days before making this recipe, I defrosted quite a few small plastic containers for use in the soup.

To start the process, the first thing I had to do was brown up some chicken pieces. The recipe calls for a "stewing hen" cut into 6 pieces, but guess what I found on my Peapod.com expedition this week? I found a whole chicken, already cut into pieces, bones, skin, gizzards and all. Perfect, I still got fresh food, but I took a tiny bit of work out of it...that's what I like to find! So, in batches, I browned up my chicken pieces in one pot, and then placed them in another, larger, stock pot. I think the recipe means to use the same pot all the way through, but since I don't have restaurant-size stock pots, or giant areas of stove top, I actually used a lobster pot to make this soup. I knew I was going to need depth, and that's the deepest I've got!

Once I had browned all of the pieces of chicken (this was done in a few batches so as not to crowd them), and they had all been tossed into the lobster/stock pot, I added a bunch of other things! A nice, rough cut of mirepoix (carrots, onions and celery) got thrown in, along with minced jalapeno, chopped ginger, and a couple of bay leaves. The knife cuts on these things don't need to be precise since the soup gets strained at the end, and all this stuff gets tossed anyway. I sauteed this mixture for about 5 minutes to bring out the flavors before adding them to the pot.

After chopping and adding all of these delicious, fresh ingredients to the pot, I poured in my GALLON of chicken stock, and seasoned it all up with some rosemary, and salt and pepper.

An hour and a half later, I took a leisurely stroll back into the kitchen to find wonderful aromas, and some very tender chicken pieces. I pulled them all out of the broth mixture, and pulled all of the meat from the bones, chopping it all into bite-sized pieces as I went. The soup continued to simmer while I did this.

Once the chicken was all chopped up, and ready for the final product, I strained my soup through a sieve, removing all of the chopped veggies and seasonings. I allowed the broth to sit for a few minutes so that the fat could kind of coagulate on top. I know, gross, but hey - it happens - and you don't want to EAT it, do you? Once a few minutes had passed, I was able to skim the oils and fattiness off the top, leaving a lovely, clear broth that smelled delicious! I sweated some garlic in a pot with some canola oil (the recipe calls for palm oil, but that is expensive and hard to find) before adding it to the broth, re-seasoned it, and since I'd just pulled out all the flavorful bits, allowed it to simmer for a few more minutes. After adding the chicken back to the pot, along with a bag of corn kernels, and some long-grained rice that I had cooked separately and allowed to air-dry for a bit, it was ready to serve! All it needed was a slight garnish of chopped cilantro!

While the soup simmered for the last few minutes, I pulled together a couple of traditional Cubano sandwiches, chock-ful of roast pork, black forest ham, provolone cheese, cilantro, pickles and dijon mustard. I set them on the Panini Grill while I dished out the soup. This was a really festive and delicious meal. The soup was fulfilling without being heavy (although my husband and I both felt like it was missing something - a spice maybe, but something - it was almost like I should have left the ginger and jalapeno IN the soup), and the Cubano - mmm, delicioso!

STOCKin' Up!

I made my own chicken stock this weekend! We're forging ahead in The Professional Chef, to the Stocks, Soups and Sauces section of the book. There are plenty of recipes to try, and many lessons to be learned, but I decided to start simple, with chicken stock. Stock is referred to in French fonds de cuisine, or "the foundations of cooking." I use it every week, and I spend lots of money on cartons of it at the store...but this weekend proved one thing to me - I won't be buying pre-packaged stock anymore!

The recipe called for 8 lbs of chicken bones, but when I went to the store, and asked the meat department for said chicken bones, they said that all of their poultry is packaged already when it is delivered. That's what I get for going to a store without a proper butcher department (next time, I'll try this!). I opted for two packages of bony chicken wings, to substitute as an ingredient for my stock. In the end, I think this made the stock a bit more gelatinous when cooled, but all it needs is a little heat to loosen right back up.

This was going to be a 4-hour process, so I started as soon as my groceries were delivered on Sunday afternoon! (Yes, thank you Peapod!) I put a gallon of water into a nice, big stock pot, and added the chicken wings, which I rinsed before adding them. I salted the mixture and set it to simmer for the next 3 hours.

While the stock simmered, I did a few things around the house, started to make dinner, and then set to prepping my mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery). Because of the time that the veggies would be simmering, I cut them to a medium dice, and also pulled together a Sachet d'Epices, a little bouquet of parsley stems, thyme, peppercorns, a bay leaf and a clove of garlic. 

After the three hours had expired, I turned off my timer and checked out the stock, so far. It had evaporated quite a bit, so even though the recipe didn't call for it, I added some more water. I don't know if I was supposed to do that, but it tastes REALLY good, so we'll just go with it. I added the beautiful mixture you see above to the simmering liquid and chicken wings, and allowed it to cook for another hour.

Once the timer went off a second time, it was time to remove the stock from the heat, and give it a good strain in a fine, mesh sieve. All the impurities are left behind and what you have left is a big bowl of delicious, flavorful, homemade stock. 

I've already used a cup of it in one of my weekly meals, and it's so good. It adds so much authentic flavor to a dish, it's incredible! I will definitely be making stock on weekends for the coming week, according to my needs. 

While there are other recipes for stocks (Brown Veal Stock, Fish Fumet, Vegetable Stock, Court Bouillon, Dashi, and a Poultry and Meat Stock), I'm not going to use these recipes until recipes further on in the book call for them specifically. There's no point in filling my freezer with unneeded stocks. Because the lessons for stocks, soups and sauces come before the recipes, I think I'll do a bit of reading this weekend and try to move ahead to the recipes, where I can share what I've learned while making some delicious recipes at the same time! Now's the perfect time of year for some heartwarming soups, anyway. We're ready for spring, it's not quite here, and we all need something to warm our bellies!

Part Four : Chapter Fourteen : Mise en Place for Stocks, Sauces, and Soups

When I started reading tonight's chapter of The Professional Chef, I was hoping it would be a first read before stepping into the kitchen to take things step-by-step and show you lots of pictures. That was not the case since this chapter was more of an introduction to the different types of aromatics, flavorings and thickening agents for soups, stocks and sauces.

Bouquets and Sachets are preparations of aromatics used for flavoring purposes. They are added during the cooking process. A bouquet garni is a tied bundle of thyme, parsley stems, bay leaf, celery and leek. The leek leaves act as the wrapping for the rest of the ingredients. A sachet is usually a bundle of peppercorns, as well as other herbs and spices all tied up in a bag made of cheesecloth. A sachet is very similar to a tea bag in the way it infuses the liquid in which it is submerged.

I've spoken about Mirepoix in the past, the French word for a combination of carrots, celery and onions that acts as the base flavor profile for many stocks, soups and sauces. There are many variations on the basic mirepoix, which we will learn about as we delve into the recipe portion of this part of the textbook.

A roux is a thickening agent that consists of a flour and a fat. Usually, this means lots of butter, melted, and then mixed with the flour, cooking it until it becomes the correct color for the recipe at hand. The basic formula is three parts flour to two parts fat. The colors are divided into four basic groups: white, blond, brown and dark, depending on how long it is cooked. Once roux is created, it is added to another liquid to thicken it.

Clarified butter is made by heating whole butter until it separates and the fat can be skimmed off the top. Many recipes call for this, as opposed to plain melted butter, because it can then be used at a higher temperature. Many rouxs start off with clarified butter. Ghee, which is used in many Asian cuisines, is another type of clarified butter, and can usually be purchased in Asian markets, as well as the Global aisle at the grocery store.

Pure starch slurries have a greater thickening power than other methods we've discussed. Ingredients such as cornstarch and arrowroot have these properties, and they don't require the extended simmering time that a roux would require. The slurry is created by submersing the ingredient of choice into cold water, before adding it to the soup or sauce. This is the quickest way to thicken.

The final page of this chapter discusses Liaisons. A liaison is a mixture of egg yolks and cream that is used to thicken sauces and soups. This mixture does not thicken in the same way that a roux or a slurry would, but adds sheen, body and flavor to the dish, as well as light golden-ivory color. To add a liaison to your dish, you'll want to use a process known as tempering, to avoid curdling the eggs. Tempering involves adding a small amount of the hot liquid to the egg mixture, in order to even the temperature out before pouring it into the main pot. Once the temperate is slowly regulated, it can be incorporated into the dish without risk of curdling. 

In the next chapter, we start to learn about making stocks and I will be applying these lessons to some of the recipes provided for practice. If all goes according to plan, I'll have seen my last carton of store-bought stock, because why buy it, when you can make it yourself!

Another Important French Term

It seems that the French have a corner on the market of important cooking techniques, and the mirepoix is one of the most important. Have you noticed that many recipes start with an assortment of diced onions, carrots and celery? That's the mirepoix! (pronounced meer-pwah)

Mirepoix for Tomato Sauce

In all its forms, either raw, roasted, or sauteed in butter, this trio is the base for many stocks, stews, and sauces. While this is the most common threesome, other cuisines have their own variations. In Italian culture, it is known as soffritto, and involves olive oil (instead of butter), as well as garlic, fennel, leek and herbs. In Creole cuisine, it is known as the Holy Trinity, and uses onion, bell pepper and celery.

The reason for the use of onions, carrots and celery (usually in a 50%, 25%, 25% ratio respectively) is the flavor and aroma that these three ingredients add to a dish. When chopping, there's not much need for uniformity among your cuts, since the vegetables cook down so much during the process. They get extremely soft and almost melt into the surrounding ingredients, adding body and thickness to the stew, soup or sauce. The smaller the dice, the quicker the aromas and flavors are released. In the event that you are looking to make a "white" stock (stock that has little to no color to it), substitutions for the carrots include parsnips and/or mushroom trimmings.

Roughly chopped mirepoix (Wikipedia)

I keep these three ingredients on hand at all times, and they usually have a starring role on my grocery lists as well. So many things start with this threesome, its just easier to always make sure you have enough on hand. Even if you don't have a recipe to go on, it's the base for basic marinara sauces, as well as most soups and stocks, so even if you are throwing something together during that "clean out the fridge" week, it is best to have them on hand!

Fun Fact: In French restaurants, mirepoix is an important item in every line cook's "mise en place" (the prepared food items at their cooking stations that save them the trouble of making each tiny part of a recipe every time an order comes in). Read more at Suite101: Mirepoix: A combination of onion, carrot and celery